Author Archives: Laysan

Variante! The Final March into Chamonix!

TMB Day 11 7 hours 13 km (8 miles) Total ascent 973 meters (3210 feet) Total descent (well, read on…) After a restful night in a private “chambre” at the Hotel du Col de la Forclaz, another delicious breakfast of … Continue reading

Posted in Laysan: Northwest | 6 Comments

The Bovine Way

On day 9 of our Tour du Mont Blanc, I look forward to our next couple of days, called “the Bovine Route”. I picture bucolic pastures, frolicking cows, and a Heidi-esque stroll through the Swiss Alps. Alas, it is not … Continue reading

Posted in Tour du Mont Blanc | 4 Comments

The long and the short

Refugio Bonatti, Gite de Alpage de la Peule, La Fouly TMB 7&8 16 km & 8 km Ascent/Descent: 988/945m & 32/507m The wonderful Refugio Bonatti behind us, with visions of the great alpinist himself still dancing in Kathleens mind, we … Continue reading

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Hike On, No Bus for Alpinistas.

The bus option is always alluring, yet ultimately the desire to complete a through hike prevails and we hike on. High above the bus option. However, not before we spend two nights and a day lounging around the Villa NoveCentro … Continue reading

Posted in Tour du Mont Blanc | 6 Comments

Cabane du Combal to Courmayeur

TMB day 5 15 km (9.3 miles), Total ascent 570 meters(1881 feet), total descent 1315 meters (4340 feet) 9 hours Dawn revealed a clear sky, cool with frost on the ground, and we departed the Refuge after morning coffee and … Continue reading

Posted in Tour du Mont Blanc | 6 Comments

Crossing the Alps in a Snowstorm.

Departing Refuge de la Croix du Bonhomme, after a “restful” night’s sleep with 30 other snoring hikers followed by a breakfast of porridge and bread, we head out for our day. The morning clouds obscure the views and the trail. … Continue reading

Posted in Laysan: Northwest, Tour du Mont Blanc | 2 Comments

Les Contamines to Col de la Croix du Bonhomme

TMB day 2 14 km, 1500 meters elevation gain, 8 hours It all started as a wonderful walk in the park along a tumbling stream. Then a 2000 year old Roman road began climbing alongside the waterfalls and we were … Continue reading

Posted in Tour du Mont Blanc | 2 Comments

A Walk…Around the Highest Mountain in Europe!

The contrast between the small Norwegian town of Petersburg , Alaska and Chamonix, France…well, it is not as great as you might imagine. We have landed in the French alps and glaciers hang high in the valleys, a lot like … Continue reading

Posted in Tour du Mont Blanc | 1 Comment

Gear Head 2019

Gear Head 2019 And so, the Inside Passage to Alaska is complete, and Laysan rests quietly in Petersburg waiting for next year. Our trip was very successful, covering almost 2000 miles in 4 months, with no significant delays or issues … Continue reading

Posted in Laysan: Northwest | 8 Comments

Panoply

The wildlife in Alaska is amazing, the mega fauna appear to be doing just fine in the far reaches of the north. Grizzly bears on the beach are the norm, we can watch them with binoculars from almost every anchorage. … Continue reading

Posted in Laysan: Northwest | 6 Comments

Glacier Bay

The Tlingit tribes had occupied a verdant valley here for centuries, possibly even thousands of years since the migrations across the Bering land bridge from Eurasia. Then in the mid 1700’s, the giant Grand Pacific Glacier began moving down on … Continue reading

Posted in Laysan: Northwest | 4 Comments

Meanderings to Juneau

In 1792 on the voyage of HMS Discovery, Captain George Vancouver spied the Coastal Tribes in their canoes, and was fascinated by their seemingly aimless navigation style. Aimless, at least in the eyes of a rigid (and successful) Western navigator … Continue reading

Posted in Laysan: Northwest | 5 Comments

900 Miles and 10,000 Years

The other day I met a man who said he had been here 10000 years, and I answered that I was just passing through. So are we all, his friend added. The Totems appear regularly in our travels up here. … Continue reading

Posted in Laysan: Northwest | 8 Comments

Murder Mystery on the Beach

Our first stop after rounding Cape Caution is a lovely anchorage at Pruth Bay. One of the best parts about the stop is the availability of several hiking trails developed by the BC Parks. Supposedly, Calvert Island does not have … Continue reading

Posted in Laysan: Northwest | 4 Comments

Gear Head Preparation 2019

Before the fun started, there was the haulout in April 2019. A necessary maintenance ritual for Laysan every few years is to arrange a TraveLift capable of lifting Laysan’s dainty 35 tons, and standing her in a yard for inspection, … Continue reading

Posted in Laysan: Northwest | 3 Comments

Around Cape Caution

Four weeks into our cruise and we have rounded Cape Caution, British Columbia; a new milestone and the halfway point to Alaska. Even though Laysan has crossed oceans, the warnings about Cape Caution gave us pause. This is the section … Continue reading

Posted in Laysan: Northwest | 4 Comments

On Hurricane Watch…2705 Miles Away

Ensconced in the anchorage of Prideaux Haven, British Columbia, John and I watch anxiously as the hurricane creeps ever closer, ever closer…to Hawaii. Our summer northwest cruises are always safe from the vagaries of hurricanes but our home in Hawaii … Continue reading

Posted in Laysan: Northwest | 5 Comments

Angst and Adrift in the Haro Strait

After realizing the last couple of months have transpired in a near stream of consciousness sequence of rv camping across the great Southwest, cleaning and renovating the old family place, flying the 1965 Piper Cherokee, and visiting with family and … Continue reading

Posted in Laysan: Northwest | 8 Comments

Anasazi Trail

Anasazi, the ancestral Pueblo people, were migrants of a different epoch. Transitioning from wandering hunter-gatherers to dry land farmers, they were the settlers of the first millennium in the high desert Southwest. Between 500-1300AD, the Pueblo people developed a complex … Continue reading

Posted in RV | 5 Comments

Heading Out

Traveling out of the Pacific Northwest in our old rv these last 18 years, we have pushed into the Cascades and Rocky Mountains many times retracing the route discovered by Lewis and Clark in their Voyage of Discovery in 1804. … Continue reading

Posted in RV | 3 Comments