Monthly Archives: September 2017

Zero Day in Burgos. 0 km. 

Burgos is a fine city for a zero day! Not only are there cathedrals, museums and tapas bars, but this weekend there is a medieval festival going on. A surprising number of the locals are wearing elaborate medieval outfits with … Continue reading

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Creationists beware. Atapuerca to Burgos 21 km

After a few thousand years of recorded history along this route , including great civilizations such as the Greeks, the Basques, the Romans, the Visigoths, the Moors, and the Spanish, I wondered about the prehistory and then we found Atapuerca.  … Continue reading

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Walking in her Footsteps. Villafranca Monte de Oca to Altapuerca 18.3 km. 

We managed an early start from the Albuergue “Truck Stop”, the whole hanging with the truckers was one of John’s favorites. The trail immediately started upward, away from the road into pine forest and pathway; a welcome change from the … Continue reading

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Castilian Truck Stop. Belorado to Villafranca Montes de Oca, 13 km

Walking the Camino today we passed the remnants of a 9th century monastery reminding me of the monks scribbling their way through the dark ages after the fall of Rome. Here then, in this particular area of northern Spain, the … Continue reading

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We Met Jesus Today. Carrasquedo to Belorado 16.7 km

After a great night, where we enjoyed the absolute luxury of having a bed and bath to ourselves, 30 euro, we headed out at a decadent 9:30 am.We expected to be the last pilgrims on the road, but we rounded … Continue reading

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Azofra to Carrasquedo 24 km

Another day another 24 km of track behind us. (35800 steps!) Morning starts slowly with long shadows in front of us and cool cloudy skies overhead. We met a couple of Spanish kittens, who interestingly purr just like American cats, … Continue reading

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Yes, Another Day. Ventosa to Azofra 16.5 km. 

Today was a good day, filled with small moments. The early morning albergue is filled with the usual suspects who snore, make noise at 5:30 am, and in general trythe patience of their fellow pilgrims, namely me. But the sunrise … Continue reading

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Barracks to beans. Logronos to Ventosa 19 km. 

Waking in my bunk among many others in the barracks, I dream I am a conscript in some strange army of zealots marching toward some unknown destination. But after coffee in the mess area I meet a couple of nice … Continue reading

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Two Sides of the Camino…Torres del Rio to Logrono 20km. 

Another 20 km down! We are getting slightly earlier starts and taking advantage of the cooler morning hours to make some distance. The walk today was referred to as the “knee crusher” because of the routes multiple ups and downs … Continue reading

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Hostelario del KoolAid.  Villamayor to Torres del Rio, 20 km.

We awoke in the unfortunate choice of albergue for last night. (Note: Here comes the rant). Run by the Jim Jones of the Camino, proselytizing Christianity for profit to a hungry captive audience crammed into his dining room, he proceeded … Continue reading

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A Short Day by Camino Standards. Villatuerta to Villamayor de Monjardin 13.2 km

After our most excellent paella dinner with “mas vino, por favor”, we had a late morning start, actually we were the last pilgrims to depart. The plan was for a short day in hopes that John’s ankle strain would continue … Continue reading

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All roads lead to Rome unless you’re going the other way. Obanos to Villatuerta 20.2 km

Leaving Obanos, we pass through Puente la Reina named for its 12th century bridge over the river Arga, and walk on. Mostly pastoral countryside today where the village homes still have armorial crests the Knights of Templar crusades era of … Continue reading

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Hard to Get Back the Rhythm…Pamplona to Obanos 19.8 km

Early morning rain spattered down on Pamplona’s cobblestone streets, so John and I had another coffee at the alburgue. Annabelle, our hosteleria, wished us a buen Camino as we finally departed at 9:00 am.  The old portion of Pamplona was … Continue reading

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Pamplona, a day of rest

Our first zero day, we stay over another night in Pamplona to see the sights and soothe the sore muscles. It is a medieval walled and cobblestone street city with a vibrant center full of locals and tourists enjoying the … Continue reading

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Day three…how many more to go? Zubiri to Pamplona 21 km

The Zubiri auberge, Suseia, was amazing if only because of Alex’s incredible dinner.  For 23 euro, we received a bed, dinner and breakfast (plus the requisite hot shower). But calling the meal “dinner” is understating the event. Alex, a cute … Continue reading

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Roman road for Roland…Roncevalles to Zubiri 21.9 km

Walking today from Roncevalles to Zubiri on remnants of a Roman road, where Roland was attacked by the Basques after sacking Pamplona with his uncle Charlemagne in 778, we listened for the sound of his horn in the woods calling … Continue reading

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And so we begin…St. Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles 25.1 km

The starting point for the Camino Frances is the medieval town of St. Jean Pied de Port. Our first night was at the aubergue Le Chemin Vers L’Etoile; the owner an ex-Parisian that walked the Camino 9 years ago offered … Continue reading

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Three days in France 

Three days in France have been a very civilized experience with crepes, croissants, and a castle: the walled medieval Cite de Carcassonne. Wandering its narrow streets with hordes of other fellow peasants, i.e. tourists, I wished for a horse and … Continue reading

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Goodbye to Cadaques!

Our sojourn in Cadaques is coming to an end; John and I have no more excuses. Our jet lag is abated, we have learned the basic pidgin Spanish, our walking clothes are clean and and time is marching on. Today, … Continue reading

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Why leave Cadaques?

Jet lag was subdued by the usual methods, (coffees, meals, and naps in a revolving order), then a fine bakery and exceptional ham (jamon Iberico and Serrano) made for our complete assimilation to Catalonia. This southeastern province of Spain has … Continue reading

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