Category Archives: Laysan

Variante! The Final March into Chamonix!

TMB Day 11 7 hours 13 km (8 miles) Total ascent 973 meters (3210 feet) Total descent (well, read on…) After a restful night in a private “chambre” at the Hotel du Col de la Forclaz, another delicious breakfast of … Continue reading

Posted in Laysan: Northwest | 6 Comments

The long and the short

Refugio Bonatti, Gite de Alpage de la Peule, La Fouly TMB 7&8 16 km & 8 km Ascent/Descent: 988/945m & 32/507m The wonderful Refugio Bonatti behind us, with visions of the great alpinist himself still dancing in Kathleens mind, we … Continue reading

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Crossing the Alps in a Snowstorm.

Departing Refuge de la Croix du Bonhomme, after a “restful” night’s sleep with 30 other snoring hikers followed by a breakfast of porridge and bread, we head out for our day. The morning clouds obscure the views and the trail. … Continue reading

Posted in Laysan: Northwest, Tour du Mont Blanc | 2 Comments

Gear Head 2019

Gear Head 2019 And so, the Inside Passage to Alaska is complete, and Laysan rests quietly in Petersburg waiting for next year. Our trip was very successful, covering almost 2000 miles in 4 months, with no significant delays or issues … Continue reading

Posted in Laysan: Northwest | 8 Comments

Panoply

The wildlife in Alaska is amazing, the mega fauna appear to be doing just fine in the far reaches of the north. Grizzly bears on the beach are the norm, we can watch them with binoculars from almost every anchorage. … Continue reading

Posted in Laysan: Northwest | 6 Comments

Glacier Bay

The Tlingit tribes had occupied a verdant valley here for centuries, possibly even thousands of years since the migrations across the Bering land bridge from Eurasia. Then in the mid 1700’s, the giant Grand Pacific Glacier began moving down on … Continue reading

Posted in Laysan: Northwest | 4 Comments

Meanderings to Juneau

In 1792 on the voyage of HMS Discovery, Captain George Vancouver spied the Coastal Tribes in their canoes, and was fascinated by their seemingly aimless navigation style. Aimless, at least in the eyes of a rigid (and successful) Western navigator … Continue reading

Posted in Laysan: Northwest | 5 Comments

900 Miles and 10,000 Years

The other day I met a man who said he had been here 10000 years, and I answered that I was just passing through. So are we all, his friend added. The Totems appear regularly in our travels up here. … Continue reading

Posted in Laysan: Northwest | 8 Comments

Murder Mystery on the Beach

Our first stop after rounding Cape Caution is a lovely anchorage at Pruth Bay. One of the best parts about the stop is the availability of several hiking trails developed by the BC Parks. Supposedly, Calvert Island does not have … Continue reading

Posted in Laysan: Northwest | 4 Comments

Gear Head Preparation 2019

Before the fun started, there was the haulout in April 2019. A necessary maintenance ritual for Laysan every few years is to arrange a TraveLift capable of lifting Laysan’s dainty 35 tons, and standing her in a yard for inspection, … Continue reading

Posted in Laysan: Northwest | 3 Comments

Around Cape Caution

Four weeks into our cruise and we have rounded Cape Caution, British Columbia; a new milestone and the halfway point to Alaska. Even though Laysan has crossed oceans, the warnings about Cape Caution gave us pause. This is the section … Continue reading

Posted in Laysan: Northwest | 4 Comments

On Hurricane Watch…2705 Miles Away

Ensconced in the anchorage of Prideaux Haven, British Columbia, John and I watch anxiously as the hurricane creeps ever closer, ever closer…to Hawaii. Our summer northwest cruises are always safe from the vagaries of hurricanes but our home in Hawaii … Continue reading

Posted in Laysan: Northwest | 5 Comments

Angst and Adrift in the Haro Strait

After realizing the last couple of months have transpired in a near stream of consciousness sequence of rv camping across the great Southwest, cleaning and renovating the old family place, flying the 1965 Piper Cherokee, and visiting with family and … Continue reading

Posted in Laysan: Northwest | 8 Comments

The Broughtons Beyond the Salish Sea

Now that Laysan is shut down, tied up, and pickled for a long winters nap, it’s time to recount a wonderful summer cruise to the Broughtons and back. The Broughton Archipelago is a large BC Marine Park of over 200 … Continue reading

Posted in Laysan, Laysan: Northwest | 7 Comments

Timeless at Turnbull Cove

Timeless at Turnbull Cove After a push up the Strait of Georgia for Campbell River, we visited our friends and former crew mates, John and Naomi. Feasting and hiking together, while also provisioning at the big yellow store, it was … Continue reading

Posted in Laysan, Laysan: Northwest | 9 Comments

When we were in civilized lands…

Reflecting back on our transit through the Puget Sound and the San Juan Islands, I now realize we were in civilized lands.  Unlike the empty, silent, grey waters and mountains of the Broughton Archipelago, the San Juan Islands are like … Continue reading

Posted in Laysan, Laysan: Northwest | 2 Comments

Good to go, or enough already

  Enough is not a word found on the Captain’s pre-departure checklist, but that was the agreed upon sentiment after a week at the dock running up all the systems on Laysan and provisioning for three months off the grid. … Continue reading

Posted in Laysan, Laysan: Northwest | 6 Comments

Salish Sea Summary

Looking  out the window at ridiculously perfect weather with palm trees and rainbows, I’m still wondering why we’re not on the boat, but the realities of early retirement necessitate replenishment of the so-called cruising kitty, and that means work. Not … Continue reading

Posted in Laysan, Laysan: Northwest | 3 Comments

The Apogee and the Good Samaritan

50:16.56’N 125:13.95W The apogee, or top of our curving route north. As we swing gently around the anchor in the Octopus Islands, the bow gradually points southward, influenced by the veering winds of the first cold front of the next … Continue reading

Posted in Laysan, Laysan: Northwest | 11 Comments

A Cellular Holiday

Desolation Sound has provided a therapeutic cellular holiday,world data system reboot, and an opportunity to entirely miss all media coverage of the first political convention this summer. It was wonderful. I highly recommend it. Although, for Connor’s sake, we did … Continue reading

Posted in Laysan, Laysan: Northwest | 4 Comments