The Zubiri auberge, Suseia, was amazing if only because of Alex’s incredible dinner. For 23 euro, we received a bed, dinner and breakfast (plus the requisite hot shower). But calling the meal “dinner” is understating the event. Alex, a cute Spaniard 20-something, made an incredible 5 course extravaganza of beet gazpacho, goat cheese salad, basque quiche, pineapple panna cotta, and hand made chocolate. This was our first auberge dinner, where all the pilgrims, Irish, Spanish, American, Danish sat down together for dinner. A lovely affair.
The next morning we awoke late, because some fellow pilgrim had closed the shutters and we had no idea the sun was up, and set out on our 21 km walk to Pamplona. While the aubergues in town are full, the path itself is quite empty. Granted we passed the occasional fellow pilgrim long the way, but for the most part we were alone on the trails by running rivers and flowered meadows. Where did they all go?
As we neared Pamplona, the largest town on our journey, we chose an alternate route to avoid the busy streets of the city. As we walked the river path, local Spaniards would wish us “buen Camino” and “buen viejo”.